Super Duper Useful Cabled Pouch Knitting Pattern!

 

So, I’ve taken up knitting. It’s a very fun hobby, you know. But I like small projects. I have a somewhat short attention span when it comes to crafts, so I’ve been trying to think of small projects, things I could make in a week of watching Burn Notice on Netflix, or less. And then it hit me: a case for my phone! I hate putting my phone into a pencil pouch, a zippered pocket in my bag, or, worst of all, my pocket during school hours. I’m always afraid I’ll lose it or it’ll get stolen or explode radioactivity into all of my insides. I also wanted, though, it make something stylish, and try cabling. However, the Internet, vast as it is, had nothing (for free) that I could easily do and actually liked. So I made a pattern! It’s delightfully simple.

 

I used two size 5 US circular needles, and a rather small amount of a DK yarn (I’ve lost the label) in a creamy white color; I just had a partial skein lying around. Anything in the DK vein should work though, so pick your own pretty colors and textures and stuff, but remember, lighter yarn equals better visibility for your beautiful cables! This project does not use much yarn at all — I’ve made a pair of fingerless gloves and done some embroidery with a pretty small skein and I still have quite a bit left over after this project. So don’t worry too much about your yarn. In addition, you’ll also need a button, a tapestry needle, and some yarn left over to sew up the bottom and the button.

 

The actual pattern:

CO 40 sts in the round (I like using two circulars, but you can use dps, magic loop, whatever). Join in the round.

Rows 1 – 4: P4, K4, repeat till end

Row 5: P4, sl2 to cn, cf, K2, K2 from cn (or slip back to main needle and K2, whichever you prefer), repeat till end

Repeat rows 1-5 until you reach your desired length. I did mine until it completely covered my phone, plus a little, which was about 5 and a half inches. Once at your desired length:

Work in pattern until you finish a Row 4. Now, you will make the flap:

Flap starter: P4, sl2 to cn, cf, K2, K2 from cn (or slip back to main needle and K2, whichever you prefer), repeat until you have done one half (20 sts, or 3 purl ribs, two cables) of the pouch. BO the remaining half (20 sts, three cables, two purl rows.) The bound off portion will be the front of your pouch. If you bind off the half that has more cables than purl ribs, this will make your flap look neater and will make your button hole easier too! (Check out the pictures above if this is confusing)

Flap: Now that you’re straight knitting, things will change a little. You’ll continue doing a stockinet rib, but you’ll have to switch off each row (K4, P4, etc instead of P4, K4), and every other cable you’ll have to cf your purls (it’s gonna look weird, but it’ll work out, trust me). Basically, you’ll be doing this:

Row 1, 3: P4, K4

Row 2, 4: K4, P4

Row 5: P4, sl2 to cn, cf, K2, K2 from cn (or slip back to main needle and K2, whichever you prefer), repeat till end

Row 6, 8: K4, P4

Row 7, 9: P4, K4

Row 10: K4, sl2 to cn, cf, P2, P2 from cn (or slip back to main needle and P4, whichever you prefer), repeat till end

Work in pattern a few times until the flap is as long as you want it and reaches around the the crossing part of the center cable (that’s where it was easiest to put the button, in my opinion). You should be at either a Row 5 or 10. Working in that:

Row 5/10: Work in pattern until you reach the center purl rib. Make a buttonhole. (BO 4 sts, CO 4 sts. I use the cable cast on because it’s what I’m familiar with. Do what you want.) Continue in pattern.

Work until you get to a Row 4 or 9. Don’t make the flap too much longer after the buttonhole, or else the extra bit will flap all over the place. After the button hole, in mine, there are only four more rows. BO.

Weave in ends.

Sew the bottom of the pouch together. I did this in a pretty unorthodox way for knitting, but that’s because I’m originally a sewer. If you want to do it the Molly way, turn it inside out (you won’t see the cables) and overcast-stitch the bottom. You won’t be able to see the stitches, and it holds together very well. Weave in the ends from that stitching, too.

Sew on a button. I liked sewing it onto on of the cross-over points in the center cable, as I said earlier. (If your tapestry needle doesn’t fit through the holes in the button, thread a normal needle with thread and tie it to the yarn, and go from there. It’ll take a while with the normal needle and the actual project, but it works pretty well. That’s what I did.)

 

It probably could use some blocking, but that’s a lot of work and I don’t really care that much about a slightly curly edge.

 

I hope that makes sense! If you need an explanation, just leave a comment and I’ll try.

 

That’s all for today!

 

molly b

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